THE CITY I FELL IN LOVE WITH
MALAGA (PART I)
Spain has always been on my short list of destinations I want to visit, but I had never come across an airfare that would fit my budget as well as my work schedule. A little over a month ago, as usual, I was looking through the applications of low-cost airlines flying from Zagreb and the surrounding cities, in order to find a favorable ticket and a destination that would suit me. When I came across a return ticket to Malaga, Spain for only 30 euros. I hastily tried to plan everything in order to be able to afford this trip, but as always the biggest problem is finding a sitter for my dog. The friend who always babysits my dog when we travel wasn't available for the dates that worked for me. Of course I was a little disappointed but we quickly tried to plan other options for who could keep him. This search lasted the whole day and when I was already determined to give up the trip, Tena called and told us that she managed to make a change in her plans and will be able to look after Leon (our dog). Overjoyed that we were able to solve that problem, I immediately rushed to book plane tickets to Malaga with Ryanair. The price of the return flight was already raised to 50 euros and I rushed to book as fast as I could. Next, of course, was booking accommodation and buying tickets to visit the most famous attractions in Malaga.
Our flight was on Saturday at 6 o'clock in the morning, I booked parking and a transfer to the airport at Park and Fly, where we arrived a little before 4 o'clock, left the car and were transported by van to the airport in Zagreb, which is a 5-minute drive from the parking lot. We went through all the controls and settled into a lounge section and waited for the cafes to open so we could grab a coffee and recharge our batteries before the flight as we had been up since 3am.
The flight lasted 3 hours and 20 minutes, and considering that it was December and there was quite a bit of fog and clouds, the flight was quite calm. We landed in Málaga at 9:20 and headed straight for the exit and the bus stops to downtown Málaga. We waited about 10-15 minutes for the bus, the ticket cost 4 euros per person in one direction, and it can be bought from the driver with cash or card. The drive itself to the city center takes about 30-40 minutes.
When we arrived in the center we headed straight to our hotel, Salles Malaga Center in order to leave our backpacks so we could walk around the city freely. When we arrived at the hotel, even though it was only 10 in the morning, our room was already ready and we could settle into it. One night in this 4-star hotel with breakfast included for two people cost 150 euros.
We settled into the room, but noticed that it was too cold in it and realized that the window did not close completely. We called the front desk to report it and then went out to explore this adorable and charming town.
First we went in search of some interesting coffee bar where we could drink coffee. We found the cutest little alley that was full of cafes, had a cobbled street, and where a charming gentleman entertained the guests by playing the accordion and singing some famous Spanish songs like "Cao Bella", and of course we couldn't resist. and we sat down to drink a coffee here. The prices are quite reasonable, they are even lower than Croatia, which was a real surprise. We paid 3.40 euros for espresso and coffee with milk here. From there we headed to the local market "Marcedo Central de Atarazanas" which is quite famous in Malaga. Here you can find everything you need, from fruits and vegetables, to fresh fish and meat, various freshly squeezed juices and smoothies, spices, barbecue, various oils, processed meat and many other things. We bought some dragon fruit and headed to the marina.
A promenade has been built next to the marina, where there are many cafes and restaurants, as well as small stalls where you can buy various handmade items. We decided to sit on a bench and taste the fruit we bought. I tried dragon fruit for the first time in my life and I can say that it has a very interesting taste that I like.
After enjoying for some time the view of the sea and the sailing ships, we headed to the Alcazaba fortress. Although we have not yet seen the strict center of the city, what we have seen so far has hinted that Malaga will leave us delighted and eager to come again. On one side a beautifully arranged park and on the other beautiful buildings in baroque style. Slowly approaching the fortress, we could not even guess what was waiting for us inside, and how big this fortress actually is. I bought the entrance tickets online for 11 euros for two people, which included entrance to the castle "Castelo de Giblarfaro". The temperature was an incredible 17 degrees, the sun was shining brightly and made this fort look even more spectacular. Every second your gaze is distracted by some new detail, and you can't help but wonder if this place is real. As I already said the fort is huge and it takes at least an hour to be able to walk around the entire fort. There is a slight climb which is certainly worth all the effort because at the top you are greeted with a beautiful view of the marina and the city. Realistically, words can't even come close to capturing what the eyes see, so I'll leave the following pictures to capture at least a little of the beauty of this place.
The Alcazaba is a palatial fortification in Malaga, Spain, built during the period of Muslim-ruled Al-Andalus. The current complex was begun in the 11th century and was modified or rebuilt multiple times up to the 14th century. It is one of the best-preserved alcazabas in Spain. The Alcazaba is also connected by a walled corridor to the higher Castle of Gibralfaro, and adjacent to the entrance of the Alcazaba are remnants of a Roman theatre dating to the 1st century AD.
The Gibralfaro and the hill on which the Alcazaba is built was previously occupied by Phoenicians since around 600 BC, and remains of a Phoenician fortification wall have been uncovered there. During the Roman period of the city (after 205 BC), the area was occupied by a Roman villa and industrial facilities. A Roman theater, excavated and visible today, was built into the western slope of the hill in the 1st century AD. After the Muslim conquest of the Iberian Peninsula in the early 8th century, historical sources mention the existence of a fortress on the hill, constructed by Abd ar-Rahman I (r. 756–788) and including a mosque inside.
The current Alcazaba was begun by the Hammudid dynasty in the early 11th century, probably under the reign of Yahya I (r. 1021–1036), from which time some of the preserved palace architecture may date.
The Alcazaba of Málaga is built on a hill in the centre of the city, overlooking the port, and comprises two walled enclosures, one contained within the other. Each enclosure is defended by a wall fortified with towers. The inner enclosure occupies the summit of the hill and contains the palaces. Along with the double-layered fortifications, a total of five gates had to be crossed in order to reach the palace areas. The fortress was formerly connected to the city ramparts which formed a third defensive wall.
The outer entrance to the citadel is via a climbing passage that passes through multiple gates and doubles back on itself twice (known as a "bent entrance"), a design intended to make progress difficult for attacking forces. Part-way up, the passage goes through the Puerta de la Bóveda ('Gate of the Vault'), which forms one of the bends, and then through the Puerta de las Columnas ('Gate of the Columns'), which is a simpler straight passage. The name of the latter gate comes from the two Roman-era columns and capitals, reused from the nearby Roman theatre, that are integrated into the gate's façade. In the 18th century, the mayor or governor of the Alcazaba built his residence on top of this gate. Over time houses and residences were built along much of the entrance passage and covered it, so that by the 19th century it was known as the "Alcazaba Tunnel" (Túnel de la Alcazaba).
After the Puerta de las Columnas, another narrow space enclosed by walls continues upward towards the Arco del Cristo ('Arch of the Christ', also called the Torre del Cristo, 'Tower of the Christ'), another bent-entrance gate that finally leads into the outer citadel enclosure. Beyond the gate, a short distance to the west and inside the outer citadel enclosure, is an open space now known as the Plaza de las Armas ('Place/Square of Arms'), now occupied by gardens. No original remains are extant in this area, but archeological work uncovered remains of a former parish church, which was built on top of a former mosque. Some parts of the outer enclosure are closed to the public today, including a large well, known as the Pozo Airón, which cuts into the bedrock to a depth of 30 meters, where a natural water source was used to supply the inhabitants of the citadel.
The inner or upper enclosure can only be accessed through the Puerta de los Cuartos de Granada ('Gate of the Granada Quarters', also known as the Puerta de los Arcos) a heavily-fortified gate on the western side of the enclosure. This gate is flanked by towers and has a straight passage with two doorways, between which is a small space open to the sky where defenders could attack intruders from above. The gate fell into ruin over the centuries and was largely demolished in 1854; the current structure was reconstructed in the 20th century with the help of historical illustrations. On the eastern side of the inner citadel is the large Torre del Homenaje ('Tower of Tribute'), built during the 11th century but rebuilt in the Nasrid period. During the 20th-century restoration campaigns the tower was preserved instead of reconstructed. Inside the inner citadel is a series of courtyard residences known as the Cuartos de Granada (Quarters of Granada) which served as the home of the kings and governors.
The first (southernmost) of them is the only one that dates to the Taifa period (11th century). The northern wing of this palace has disappeared and is replaced by trees today. Only the southern wing or pavilion remain standing, though it was also heavily restored by Leopoldo Torres Balbás in the early 20th century. This pavilion has an inner façade and is entered via a wide portico with arches. Behind this is a small rectangular chamber entered via another arcade with three horseshoe arches. The arches are supported by two columns in the middle and two engaged columns on the sides and are decorated with carved arabesque decorations.
Adjacent on the southwest side of the main chamber and portico is a small annex. A square chamber at the entrance of this annex is surrounded on all four sides by pairs of intersecting multifoil arches.
Directly behind the southern pavilion is an outer fortification tower known as the Torre de Maldonado, which was remodeled by the Almohads in the 12th-13th century, with vestiges of decoration from this era. Across from it, to the northeast, is a large chamber dating from the 16th century and featuring a wooden Mudejar ceiling. Today it houses a model of the Alcazaba.
The rest of the area northeast of the Taifa palace is occupied by a Nasrid palace with various rooms and porticos arranged around two rectangular courtyards. Most of this palace was reconstructed or restored in the 20th century on the basis of archeological remains. The first courtyard, known as the Patio de los Naranjos ('Courtyard of the Orange Trees'), has preserved two original pools and their paved tile decoration. The second courtyard, known as the Patio de la Alberca ('Courtyard of the Pool'), has one long central pool, again surrounded by original tile paving. On the northeast side of this section is another courtyard, the Patio del Aljibe.
We spent more than two hours walking around this incredible fortress, and just when we thought we had seen everything, some new detail and new palace appeared before us, each one more beautiful than the last. If you are visiting this fort, I recommend that you plan to set aside at least two hours for this amazing site, so that you can take a close look at it and observe all the amazing details that are hidden here.
When we finished exploring the Azkabah, we headed to the Romanian theater which is located right in front of the fortress, but unfortunately it was closed. But it's still visible from the outside and you can see it, even though you can't get close to it. When we looked at the clock, we realized that it was already time for lunch, so we decided to head to one of the restaurants in the center, and leave the visit to the other fortress "Castillo de Gibralfaro" for one of the next visits to Malaga, because we were already tired from this walk.
TO BE CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST...
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